Trip to Papi Kondalu along River Godavari

My long awaited vacation finally started with a cruise along the river Godavari to the scenic Papi Kondalu hills in Andhra Pradesh. The previous day we checked into the excellent River Bay Hotel in Rajamahendri (Rajahmundry as the Britishers renamed it).
We took an early morning bus to Pattiseema where the cruise started from. The upstream journey was wonderful with the river gracefully snaking its way up the plains into the thickly forested hills. The climax was the stretch where we entered the famous Papi Hills where the hill ranges are so closely spaced that it actually looks like the river is removing curtain after curtain in its relentless journey. The river here gets to just 150-200 metres wide, a fraction of its girth at Rajamahendri where the rail cum road bridge itself is 5 kms wide.
We took the 200 air conditioned seater from Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC) manned by a dutiful and polite crew. Unfortunately the whole booking and boarding was messed up by the management and we heard that the cruise day before had to be cancelled after starting off as they realised the boat was over-crowded. Though the journey was beautiful, the boarding and ticketing process was mis-managed. APTDC still follows a manual booking process that complicates booking and cancelation big time! The boat was also slow (one felt someone jogging along the bank would have moved faster) and the journey was about 10 hours long! For someone wishing to cover this, I would recommend a trip to Kunavaram from Bhadrachalam, a famous temple town in Khammam district; from Kunavaram one can hire a boat and complete a round trip to the Papi Hills in about 4-5 hours.
Eleven years ago, I had an opportunity to do this journey but from the other way. I took a bus from Bangalore to Hyderabad and from there a connection to Bhadrachalam. After a day or two there covering places like Parnasala and Kinnerasani Wild Life Sanctuary, I moved to Kunavaram and stayed overnight paying a princely sum of eight rupees for renting a cot! The next morning I took the daily passenger motor launch to Rajamahendri that costed rupees thirty inclusive of lunch. That journy was special - I ended up spending more time on the roof of the boat and we touched almost every village on either side of the river. Looking back it almost has a 'Swades' movie like touch to it. I recall seeing so many kids splashing about in the water and this time could not spot a single soul frolicing in the water! I am told that the demography along the river has somewhat changed and people have moved on to the cities where more opportunities beckon in the risng economy of India. In a few years the ambitious Polvaram project will dam the river a few kms north of Rajamahendri transforming the economy of the whole state and also displacing several thousand villagers. That will change the demography more abruptly and take away the beauty of Papi Kondalu for ever.

A Cruise to Heaven..

Yesterday is one such day which would be tucked in my memory lane forever under contentment! It always happens with me when am surrounded by plush rustic beauty, luscious greenery, serene waters, cool breeze and slight drizzle.. Top it off with the company of loved ones, life felt never so better! Hmm.. Didn’t realize I typed this much without any details! God, Am Verbose for sure! I took a one day boat ride to Papi Kondalu from Rajahmundry along with my family and friends. Its a trip that’s long pending, and guess anticipation made it sweeter.

We booked Punnami travels for a packaged tour which promises pickup from Rajahmundry and boat ride from Pattuseema to Papikondalu and back. The itinerary included Posamma Temple, Devipatnam, Perantalapalli, and Papikondalu. The travels car picked us from home at around 6:30 AM and we headed to Pattuseema on road. Weather is exceptionally pleasant and the chilled breeze and the cozy riverside drive set the tone of the day. We reached the Pattuseema coast by 8:00 AM. There are around 4 boats which are awaiting for passengers by the shores and are scheduled to start by 9:00 AM. Well, an hour is just perfect for a short visit to the Pattisam Island which houses a Shiva and Venkateswara Temple. We boarded a small ferry boat which runs from the shore to island and did the darshana.

We boarded the Nandini boat for the Papikondalu visit. The boat has an A.C. fitted lower deck with wooden interiors. Its quite comfortable with cusioned chairs, a huge bed, a small podium, a canteen and can comfortably accommodate 40 people. The upper deck has an open terrace covered by a metal roof and can seat 20 people. The boat has to cruise its way through around three districts to reach Ppikondalu. After a sumptuous breakfast at boat, me and my sister rushed to the tip of the boat after coaxing the driver. Slowly, my family members joined us surreptitiously. We were mesmerized by the soothing comfort of the chilled breeze, numbed by the shimmery sand dunes, engrossed in the silent rhythm of the Godavari and the serene sanctity of the mountains. And now am at loss for those nice sounding expressions which can mimic the serene sanctity that enveloped me there! We touched upon a village called Tadivada (end of East Godavari District), Seenivaka (End of West Godavari District), and entered Khammam district to head to Perantalapalli to visit a small waterfall and the famous Shiva temple out there. There are a lot of tribals women trying to sell us beautiful bamboo flowers and minature bamboo houses. We bought some and then headed to the temple. This temple is little different in the terms of rules that they observe. One has to observe absolute silence in the temple and there is no official Puja in the Mandir. Its just God, You and Yourself.. That had a calming and soothing experience on me.

The whole route is blessed by lots of temples, local Gods and Godesses and we chanced upon an ancient temple where this popular song called ‘Na Gontu Sruti lona, Na Gunde Layalona’ from JanakiRamudu movie is picturized. That place is even more lovely in reality. Well, the local faith is that there is a golden temple thats underground to that actual temple on top and is visible to the Sadhus in their meditation. Also, the Pujari vehemently endorsed that there is a underground route to Kasi from the temple. Well, now no debates are encouraged on the veracity of this beliefs. The bottom line is that I loved that place, trip and am hoping to visit it again!